Furniture Care
Should you need immediate help or answers on topics not covered, please call and ask for Paul at 843.884.2256. Paul is one of Danco homes owners, and his 30+ years of experience will be of great assistance.

  • faq
  • 1. Furniture Care:

    The guidelines for furniture maintenance are pretty simple. If the furniture is used wisely and handled carefully, it will need very little in the way of routine maintenance. But in cleaning and polishing furniture surfaces and hardware, and in re-upholstering, some well-intentioned caretakers introduce damage. In fact, a lot of what furniture repair people’s work is to respond to destructive maintenance practices.
  • 2. Maintenance for Fine Woods:

    For weekly maintenance of these woods use a soft cloth, or even better a chamois, rinsed in cold or lukewarm water and thoroughly wrung out. Depending on use, the surface should be polished as much as once a month or as little as once a year.
  • 3. Maintenance for Leather:

    We recommend keeping leather clean at all times. Dust using a slightly damp cloth. Some leather products can be cleaned with a leather cleaner/conditioner. This lotion should not be left on the leather to dry, but instead should be wiped off thoroughly with a dry, absorbent cloth. Always check with your salesperson before using any cleaner/conditioner.

    Leather is a natural material and, as such cannot be expected to be “perfect”. Natural wrinkle lines, scars and blemishes from healed wounds, as well as tiny holes from insect bites are to be expected. All of these “natural markings” are considered to be hallmarks of fine, top grain leather.

    Ink Away This is the only product we found that will actual remove ink, lipstick and pen marks from leather. It is easy to use and really works.

    Leather Cleaner & Conditioner Cleans and conditions furniture leather. Prevents leather from drying, cracking and fading. Use every 4 months.

    EKRLMBRACE8 8oz.

  • 4. Maintenance for Teak:

    Teak is extremely easy to care for and very resistant to stains. As a matter of fact, we have found there is no other hard wood as durable as Teak for home and office use. Because of this, teak is used on everything from boat decks to cutting boards. Unlike any other wood we know of Teak can withstand water spilled on it for 12 hours without showing any signs of finish damage. In addition, Teak can withstand alcohol for 6 hours. However, always wipe up any spills. If necessary it may be cleaned daily with a dry or slightly damp cloth. To keep the Teak looking beautiful, it should be oiled every 3 to 4 months. The oil may be applied with a lint free cloth (paper towels are not wise to use – they scratch the wood) or fine triple zero steel wool. Always rub in the direction of the grain, but never rub to hard or to long this will damage the surface finish. The steel wool will help remove stubborn stains that may have formed on top of the wood. After oiling, the Teak must be thoroughly rubbed with a dry, absorbent cloth. All the oil must be rubbed off the surface. In fact, it should feel just as dry to your touch as it did before you started to oil. Teak, properly cared for, will change color slightly, the grain structure will be more pronounced, and it will become more beautiful as it ages. New Teak is slightly yellow and aged Teak will have a deep orange color. Once a week, dust furniture with a lint-free cloth dust particles does scratch all wood finishes. In summer when windows are open, or when carpentry or other dust-causing work is being done in the home, dust more frequently. Once or twice a year, clean your Teak using Dancohome’s Furniture Oil made specifically for use on Teak wood. Vertical spaces can be cleaned once every other month. If a spot is stubborn, clean it several times to achieve the desired result – do not let cleaner soak into wood surface. Wood will appear dull when thoroughly cleaned. Restore luster by lightly buffing with a soft cloth.
  • 5. How to use teak oil:

    Apply a very small amount of oil or polish to a clean lint-free cloth, then rub on wood, working product with the grain of the wood a square foot at a time. A little polish goes a long way. (Polish the furniture piece between you and the brightest source of light, so you can catch any dull spots in the furniture surface reflection.) Wipe piece thoroughly dry until cloudiness or oiliness disappears. In general, wiping with the same cloth yields a sharp, reflective shine. Wiping dry with a clean lint-free cloth yields a softer, more diffused shine. Results vary with type of finish, and age of wood. Let wood dry at least 30 minutes before placing objects on it. Twice a year, before and after the heating season, is when we would give all our Teak an oil wipe down. Heat and dryness of our homes suck the oil out of our Teak When you move to a new residence, especially to a different climate, repeat the twice a year feeding described above to help your furniture adjust to heat and moisture differences in your new environment. Dane Home TEAK-OIL Replaces oils that dry out in Teak. Brings out the wood’s natural luster and depth. Amber in color. Nonflammable and nonpoisonous. WLMLMTEAK8 8oz.
  • 6. Maintenance for Marble, Travertine and Slate:

    Even though these natural materials are very hard, they may stain from food or liquids. Dining tables should be wiped with a damp cloth after meals. For cleaning, soap and water or a cleaner, such as Windex, can be used. We highly recommend that these materials be polished with a clear floor or car wax. Frequent waxing will help protect the surface. To remove stains, apply a small amount of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia or amyl acetate and acetone to the stains. Wipe with clear water. Bleach, mixed with water, may also be used, again followed by a good wiping with clear water. Please be warned that carbonated soft drinks may make stains if not properly and quickly wiped up. Furthermore, we recommend that you use a clear liquid spray sealer on any white grout. This will protect from any liquid or food stains over time. Important: The above instructions are for polished marble, slate and travertine without polyester or lacquered finishes. On these finishes only mild soap and water should be used for cleaning. Wax may be used for polishing.
  • 7. General Maintenance of Your Furniture:

    Moderate to serious damage of fine wood furniture requires the help of a professional to correct. For the everyday wear that shows up on your furniture, try these simple remedies: Yearly hardware check – just like your car investment, it is important to make sure all screws and bolts are tight. Check the hardware to all your furniture. Table legs: coffee, end, corner, hall and dining table legs sometimes have their bolts become loose and need a little tightening. Chairs should also be checked for any looseness. Using any furniture that is not firm (doesn’t wobble) is like — Walking on a sprained ankle – it will only get worse.
  • 8. Remove Small Scratches:

    The real “how to” of making them go away. To remove scratches: Clean the area. Rub the scratch lightly with an appropriate colored furniture touch-up product. When proper color is restored, apply our recommended Dancohome’s Teak Oil to restore luster.
  • 9. Remove Water Rings & Spots:

    The white spots are from water vapor trapped under the finish. This is the question we get asked the most. How do I remove the white rings and spots on my furniture? Given enough time, water and heat can cause as much damage to wood as can fire. In some instances, fresh white rings will disappear if given the time to be absorbed by dry air. High humidity will slow this process. The first step in removing a fresh white spot or ring is simply to do nothing except remove the source of the moisture and any remaining on the woods surface. Then wait. How to remove: using a hand held hair dryer (set on high) held 1-2 inches high above one spot. Go back and forth in an area about 2-3 inches. It takes about 10-15 minutes for the wood and surface finish to warm up. Then you will see that spot quickly vanish – then move to another area next to where you started and so on. What is happening is that when the surface finish warms it eases (meaning – opens up) and the water vapor evaporates. (Do not apply any furniture polish) (Do not, however, presume that if a little heat is good, more heat is better-and reach for the heat gun. The white ring may disappear, but only because you melted the finish around it.) If the white ring refuses to leave on it’s own, then you must try the following three suggestions. But remember, sometimes the cure is worse than the bite (we have seen many customer’s attempts to repair that ended up worse after they started than doing nothing at all). If your table has a satin or dull sheen, then grab a pad of OOOO Steel wool and some lemon oil or use teak oil as a lubricant. Put some on the pad and rub the spot moving in the direction of the grain. Once the spot is gone, you may need to rub the rest of the tabletop so the sheen is even. Make sure you go with the grain in long even strokes from one end to the other. To finish the task, simply wipe off the remaining oil and apply your favorite polish or teak oil. If you have a glossy sheen, you may try using a little bit of white toothpaste on a dry cotton towel. If this leaves a glossier spot than the rest of the table, then you will need to get some rubbing compounds and polishes like you would use on a car’s finish. If a mirror finish is not what you want, you can always adjust it down with the OOOO steel wool. Don’t forget to use your favorite polish when you are done. Prevention of Water Rings & Spots: To make sure spots do not happen again, be careful with anything with a little heat, bowl of soup, coffee mug – use place-mats. Always protect the wood from heat. Even a pizza in a box could leave a giant circle or white spot.
  • 10. Remove Burns:

    To remove burns rub affected areas with the finest grade steel-wool, rubbing lightly with the grain until burnt material is smoothed off. (If fine steel wool is not available, try rubbing in paste-type silver polish, avoiding unburned area of finish.)
  • 11. Remove Wax:

    To remove candle wax drippings scrape excess wax off gently. Apply warm (not hot) iron, blotting paper to absorb residue.
  • 12. Remove Dents:

    To remove dents wipe dent with warm water. Apply a compress of paper soaked in warm water to swell wood fibers. Let sit for 30 minutes, then apply a warm (not hot) iron over cloth until dent is gone. Follow with our recommended Dancohome Furniture Wood Care System, rubbing until totally dry. Note: these are only suggested methods of repair. We cannot be held responsible for any damage which may occur during or as a result of repairing. Consult our customer service department for further information.
  • 13. Cleaning Surfaces:

    For the most part, maintaining furniture simply means keeping it clean, carefully. Wood furniture usually needs to be cleaned only when there is a buildup of wax, dust, or dirt. Only unfinished wood, painted wood, or wood with a sturdy finish should be cleaned. Before cleaning wood or coatings, the first and most important step is to evaluate the surface and make sure that the surface or coating is stable and not apt to be damaged by the contact required in cleaning and polishing. If the surface ,is unstable, the polishing could knock off loose portions. Damaged surfaces should be referred to a professional. After the soundness of the surface has been established, the next step is to find out what the dirt is and what the surface is. If you can’t determine these exactly, find out what removes the dirt without affecting the surface underneath it. Often, dust can be removed with the careful wipe of a damp cloth. Oily dirt or waxy residue can be removed with a mild detergent and water solution or with mineral spirits. However, it is vital to make sure that the cleaning solution does not affect the underlying surface. Even when you determine a cleaning method that works successfully, proceed cautiously. Loose dust on the surface can be removed with a soft, lint-free cloth, gently rubbed over the surface. Dust is an abrasive and can scratch the surface, so be careful. Uneven areas can be dusted with a clean, natural bristle paint or artist’s brush. Again, do not try to dust a surface that is severely deteriorated. Cloth fibers can catch and tear away pieces of the finish, veneer or loose parts. Even rough edges can splinter. Carving, fretwork, and other delicate work can be dusted with a soft bristle brush, with a vacuum cleaner host held close enough to take in the dust one it is dislodged by the brush. Do not use feather dusters, as they can scratch and pull off loose fragments of veneer. Surfaces in good condition but with a heavy accumulation of dust can be cleaned very carefully with a vacuum cleaner. Use the lowest suction available and the round brush attachment. Don’t let the metal or hard plastic parts of the vacuum bump into the surfaces; they can scratch the finish or wood. Much damage, in fact, occurs as the feet and bases of pieces are hit with the vacuum cleaner. Dirt that cannot be simply vacuumed off may be removed with cleaners mixed in a dilute solution, but only if the finish is in good solid condition. First, determine which solvent removes the dirt without removing the finish. Those to be tested include mineral spirits (white spirit), paint thinner, and naphtha. Second, test a small spot in an obscure area with the solution on a cotton swab. All areas that appear to be a different coating or material must be tested separately. Only if the solution does not damage the test area should it be used to clean the rest of the piece. For finished wood, dampen a cotton cloth with the solvent or cleaning solution, and gently rub over a small area at a time. Avoid using too much liquid, as they can cause damage. Then, wipe the cleaned surface with a clean dampened cloth to remove any cleanser residues, followed by a dry soft cloth. Following simple cleaning, further protection and aesthetic enhancement can be obtained through the application of a stable, hard furniture polish, such as a hard paste wax. The hard wax surface can be dusted more easily because it will be more smooth, and the dust will not be imbedded in it as it would in an unwaxed surface. Waxing need only occur infrequently because the wax itself is not readily removed and it does not degrade chemically. Waxing too often can result in a built-up, clouded surface. This simple approach avoids the problems created by popular methods of “furniture polishing”- such as sprays and oily polishes – that may result in cumulative damage to furniture. Many polishes and residues continue to be a vexing problem for furniture professionals, as they can build up over time and with numerous applications, trapping and adhering airborne dirt onto the surface.
  • 14. Cleaning Uphostery:

    Dusting upholstery can be accomplished by a vacuum cleaner. Place a soft screen(old nylon stockings work well) on the surface to prevent any snagging or abrasion from the vacuum tip, and using a brush attachment, carefully vacuum the surface. Stains and other damage to upholstery should be referred to an upholstery or textile professional for further treatment. Is your home office disorganized, crowded or dreary? If so, a makeover could lift your spirits and boost productivity. With so many people working from home, the options in furniture, equipment and accessories are endless. Makers of well designed furniture are offering styles and designs fit for any situation. To decide what’s best for you, consider the way you work and think. If you like to juggle a lot of things at once, choose furnishings that allows you to spread your work out. A large desktop and adjoining workspace might work well. If you prefer to tackle one thing at a time, in a more linear fashion, a more traditional desk might do the trick. The ideal location for a home office is a room all its own that keeps distractions at bay. But if you don’t have the space for that, the dining room, family room, and guestroom — even the basement – might do the trick. Want to hide your work when it’s done? No problem. Consider an armoire with doors that open to reveal a desk and storage space.
  • 15. Preventative Care:

    Keep furniture out of direct sunlight to avoid heat damage and bleaching of wood. Keep furniture away from heating and air conditioning sources to prevent loss of moisture in the wood and burns. Use felt backing on lamps, ashtrays, and other accessories to prevent scratching and gouging. Use place mats under the plates and thermal hot pads (solid trivets) under serving dishes when serving hot food. (If you put your hand under the trivet would the heat burn your hand – hence it would burn the wood). Put houseplants in drip-proof pots and keep foliage from touching furniture surfaces to prevent moisture damage to wood. Use coasters under both hot and cold dringks. Do not place synthetic rubber or plastic items directly on wood to avoid chemical change to furniture finish. Do not leave newspapers or magazines lying on wood due to possible ink “bleeding” into the furniture finish and wood. Avoid using nail polish remover or other harsh household products near wood furniture to avoid possible damage from spills or splashes. Rotate the placement of accessories on wood furniture surfaces and change the placement of wood furniture within the room from time to tome to redistribute wear patterns.
  • 16. European Hinges:

    A hinge from these doors has two parts. One is attached to the door, which is an arm that should have a “keyhole” type of opening. In addition, it usually has a set screw (more about this later). The hinge plate (the part that is on the cabinet) is held in place by two screws, one at the top and bottom of the plate, plus a larger screw (one sticking up) that the “keyhole” opening will mount onto. Also, I always check to see that the arm on the door might have a notch that will hook onto the hinge plate (this will make sure the door hardware will sit flat on the plate). Next I slide the keyhole over the pin on the hinge plates, usually a door has two hinges. I make sure my door edge is vertical and plumb to the cabinet with about a 1/4 inch of space to the cabinet (if closer the door edge sometimes might bind or get pinched when opening or closing to the side of the cabinet). Then I slide the other hinges into place. Then I tighten all large set screws that have been inserted into the keyhole that hold hinge. Usually, if the cabinet is square and level on the floor everything works fine and looks good. Nevertheless, I’ve never seen a floor that is level or square. If my door is a little crooked to the cabinet or tilted I check the cabinet by 1st pulling rear right back corner toward me with about with 10 to 15 pounds of pressure (this will cause the left door of the cabinet to raise or lower a little bit). Hence, if I pull on the left rear corner of cabinet it will cause the right door to raise or lower. Then I shim the cabinet accordingly. However, should the door still not be closing properly or be off square to the opening or rubs the top or bottom of the cabinet we still have a small problem. Remember the “set screw” (mentioned above on the hinge attached to the door) – this screw has the function to push the hinge arm away from the hinge plate, this will move the door face up or down depending upon which way I want door to move. If you turn make a 1/2 turn or this set screw (usually this is the screw that is closest to the door) you will see that the door’s edge has raised or. With a little practice we can show the many tricks of how to adjust these hinges, please call and make an appointment in our workrooms.
  • 17. Fabric Suggestions:

    How to tackle a stain or spill on fabric: Accidents do happen. And, with Dancohome’s own Fabric Gold Protection your fabric & leather resists stains and spills and gives you the extra time you may need to effectively respond to an accident. These tips will help you safely spot clean fabrics. Things you should do: Know your fabric. Ask Dancohome to identify your fabric. Spills and stains are never planned! If you understand the special characteristics of your fabric, you’ll be able to respond appropriately. Always blot from the outside of a spot to the center of the spot. This will help control the spread of a spill. Test your fabric in a hidden area to make sure the color doesn’t come off with the stain or ringing occurs. If you get an adverse reaction, call Dancohome. If this spot is liquid, use an absorbent cloth or white paper towel and gently blot up the excess. If the spot is solid material, remove the excess by lifting off with a dull table knife or spoon. Things you should not do: Never rub, scrub, or brush a spill. Elbow grease doesn’t work on stains and spills. Never use strong chemicals like bleach, solvents, or acids unless recommended by a specialist. Never use sudsy detergents. They will leave a soapy residue that attracts soil. Do not use tap water. Use distilled water or plain seltzer water. Minerals in common tap water can cause rings. Even on treated fabrics. Avoid commercially available furniture and rug cleaners. Most foster rapid resoiling. Expert advice on some common fabric problems! Beverages: alcoholic, colas, fruits, juices, medicines, mildew, mustard, tea and wine If pre-testing indicates water is safe, slightly moisten the spot with distilled water or club soda using a clean white towel. Blot with a dry towel. Repeat. Be careful not to over wet. If stain remains after process is repeated 3 or 4 times, test an inconspicuous area with household strength (3%) hydrogen peroxide. Allow this to dry thoroughly and check closely for color loss. If OK, apply solution to spot with a cotton swab. Allow to dry. Berries, Blood, Ketchup, Chili Sauce, Chocolate, Coffee with Cream, Dressings, Egg, Mayonnaise, Meat, Milk, Sauces, Soup, Tomato Sauce: Follow Step #1 for beverages. If stain remains, test hidden area with a laundry pre-spotter containing enzyme. Dry. Then sponge tested area with water and blot with dry towel. Dry again. If area tested is OK, apply pre-spotter with a cotton swab and blot with dry towel. Take care not to soak fabric. If enzyme does not remove all traces of stain, follow Step #2 under beverages. If grease remains, apply spotter such as 1,1,1 trichloroethane and follow instructions under grease. Nail Polish: Test this procedure first with the same polish in a hidden area. Apply oil free nail polish remover or acetone with a cotton swab and absorb it gently with a white paper towel. Go slowly! Grease (Butter, Margarine, Etc.): Lift off excess with dull knife. Apply a few drops of dry-cleaning solvent such as 1,1,1 trichloroethane (available under brand name spotting products) with a cotton swab and immediately sprinkle with plain talcum. Vacuum and repeat until no traces of grease remain. Cosmetics: Exercise extra care. Dyes and solvents can cause serious damage to any fabric. Be very careful not to spread the stain. After testing, apply dry-cleaning spotter with cotton swab and blot with towel. Repeat. If stain persists, call a professional. Ink: Some water-based inks can be removed by sponging with alcohol. Always test with the same pen on inconspicuous area. Ball point can be easily set. Acetone, used very sparingly, often removes most traces. Follow procedures for grease, using acetone. Caution: acetone can dissolve some synthetics. Always test. Shoe Polish: Sponge with distilled water or club soda. If stain remains, sponge with alcohol. If color remains, follow step #2 under beverages. For wax-based shoe polish, follow procedure for grease spots. Urine: Mix equal parts white vinegar & distilled water and follow #1 under beverages. Vomit: Add 1 Tablespoon non-sudsy ammonia to 1 cup distilled water and follow procedure #1 under beverages. There is no 100% foolproof way to protect your fabric from everything under the sun. However, upholstery treated with Dancohome’s fabric protection is far more resistant to common stains and is easier to maintain. This treatment won’t change the color or texture of your upholstery. You can’t smell it or see it. You’ll never even know your upholstery’s been treated…until you need it! Dancohome strongly recommends you take advantage of this valuable fabric protection program.
  • 18. Sticky Drawers:

    Any time you have wood moving against wood, you will need something to keep the parts lubricated. If you have drawers that like to stick, try rubbing some clear paraffin or wax on both the drawer and the wood it rides upon. It is sometimes shocking what a difference it can make. Also, we have had good luck using a spay silicone found in hardware stores which works very well on wood and metal. If it doesn’t help, most likely the drawer will need some repair or is worn down.
  • 19. Armoires:

    Like most things that last, armoires have changed with the times. Descendants of medieval storage cabinets used for armor, armoires stored clothes or linens in bedrooms centuries ago. Today, armoires are as popular as ever — in every room of the house. The new armoires uses are limited only by the imagination, especially because rooms increasingly tend to serve more than one purpose. Furniture makers are increasing their lines of armoires and adding more design choices to meet increasing demand. Armoires can still hold clothes or linen, of course, but a favorite new choice is the armoire as “entertainment center,” a towering cabinet that hides the clutter of a television set, videocassette recorder, music systems or a dry bar cabinet. The units include cut-outs or built-in outlets to accommodate cables and cords, and swivel bases or pull-out trays to provide the best view of the screen. One thing to keep in mind when buying an armoire: bigger may be better in the large rooms of today’s homes, but make sure you can actually get a piece into place. Some models can be dismantled for easy movement. If you find one you really like, just make sure you’ll be able to get it into your home.
  • 20. Picking Up & Assembly:

    I’ve always found personal pleasure in assembling a high quality piece of furniture. Like they say — if you enjoy the labor and have the time – just do it!. Nevertheless, I’ve learned to read any and all directions first. Plus, I always ask an expert, how would you do it, are there any tricks I should know? As a rule of thumb – unassembled furniture of the equal price as regular assembled furniture is actually better quality. Furthermore, it is easier to customize – you can set shelves at the height you want or leave on doors or not mount them at all. And like all work you enjoy, you get a special satisfaction in telling friends about how you made that piece of furniture, which usually gets a look of admiration.
  • 21. Moving Furniture:

    In addition to using furniture wisely, it is important to handle it carefully. Safe handling and moving of furniture begin with a basic understanding of how a piece is constructed. The second step is to plan carefully. Also, to remove children and pets from the area, nothing is worse than holding a piece of furniture and stepping on any little toes. Before moving a piece of furniture, examine it for loose or damaged joinery. Once you have decided that it is safe to move, remove shelves, doors, and drawers. This makes it lighter to lift and carry, plus it is safer, because doors or drawers will open if the furniture is tilted and you could break off a door or damage a wall. If doors cannot be removed, secure them by locking or taping the door closed (use a paper tape – “duct tape can pull off the finish and ruin a piece.) Tables should always be lifted by the apron or legs rather than by the top, which could possibly detach. And if you drag a table the legs will surly break. When moving a large piece, be sure to lift it and not drag it across the floor, |as excessive lateral pressure on legs and feet can cause them to shear off or leg joinery to break. And you can scratch your floor by moving or dragging furniture across it. Also, don’t every quickly pull a sideboard forward without holding the hutch – the laws of Sir Isaac Newton will tell you that the hutch could fall backwards. When transporting furniture in a vehicle, place the object on its back or top, not on the legs. If the piece has a marble or glass top, carefully lift it off and transport or store it vertically. Glass and marble will break if transported flat. General concerns on moving furniture: Before picking up a piece of furniture, determine how it is put together and if any of its parts are removable or detachable. Make sure you know where the furniture is its strongest – generally along a major horizontal element – and try to carry it from these points. Then examine the room and the route where the furniture is to be moved. Look around to make sure you know where everything is. Identify potential trouble. Light fixtures that hang low, for examples, or that sticks out from the wall may be damaged or cause damage. Glass tabletops are also easily damaged if bumped. If necessary, clear the way by moving or removing fragile or obstructive items. Protect the furniture to be moved with soft padding or wrap it in a blanket pad. Padding, which will provide extra insurance against bumping and gouging, is especially important if an item is going into storage. Before moving an item, make sure you know exactly where it goes next. Plan ahead to adjust the temperature and relative humidity in the new location so they are the same as where the furniture presently is. Extreme changes in temperature and humidity can cause splitting of joints and veneers. Never hurry when you are moving furniture. Scratches, dents, and gouges from bumps against hand truck, doorways, and other furniture are always more likely in haste. Each item needs to be approached individually, without haste, and with sufficient manpower present. Make sure you have a firm grip on the piece with both hands. Do not wear cotton gloves. It is essential that hands not slip from a piece of furniture while it is being moved. Never slide or drag furniture along the floor. The vibration can loosen or break joints, chip feet, break legs, etc., to say nothing of what dragging does to the carpeting or finish on the floor. Whenever possible, use trolleys or dollies for transporting heavy pieces. Handling valuable furnishings requires a special attitude: in general, movement should be carried out at a slower pace. Here are some quick tips for moving furniture properly. Remember: If you don’t break it, it doesn’t have to be fixed! Just as gymnasts work with “spotters” to catch them when they misstep, have helpers on hand to guide the movers so they don’t crash into walls or other pieces of furniture. Anticipate trouble; think through every step; plan ahead; and do everything with care. Make sure the route is clear and has no obstructions, such as narrow doorways or hanging chandeliers that might hinder the safe passage of furniture and movers The following sections offer suggestions for moving specific types of furniture.
  • 22. Moving Seating Furniture:

    When lifting a chair, remember that the seat rail is its strongest part, not the chair back. Frequently lifting by the back, especially the crest rail, will eventually result in breakage. For small chairs, lift by the side seat rails, one hand near the front on one side, the other near the rear on the other side. When lifting a large chair or sofa, the principles are the same. Grab underneath the side frame, making sure to lift with your legs rather than your back. For upholstered chairs or sofas, place your hands underneath the frame to avoid touching\ the upholstery. If upholstery must be touched, use cotton gloves. For chairs or sofas with loose cushions, remove the cushions and wrap and move it separately to prevent its being soiled or falling out during the move.
  • 23. Moving Tables:

    The strongest part of a table is generally the apron. Whenever possible, lift the table carefully from the apron, never by the top or legs. Lifting on the top rather than the apron may break the glue-blocks that hold the top to the frame or strip out the screws that hold the top on. Grabbing the legs, particularly tables with long, unsupported legs, will cause unnecessary stress on the leg and the joint connecting it to the apron. Whenever possible, wrap padding around a table’s legs before moving it to prevent chipping or breakage during the move or just take the legs off. If you are moving a drop-leaf table, first determine which support members move. Is the table leaf supported by a bracket or by a swing-leg? Fold the leaves down, and restrain them with padding and a tie band. If the support is provided by a swing-leg or gate-leg, tie it in place as well. The only safe place to grab a drop-leaf table is underneath the end aprons. Grabbing by the legs, especially swing-legs, will increase the chance of damage to them, and grabbing the table by the side leaves will often result in fracturing the long rule joint that allows the leaves to drop.
  • 24. Moving Case Furniture:

    Moving Case Furniture: While case pieces, especially large ones, may appear very different from tables and chairs, the same rules apply. Never try to move a large piece by yourself. A case piece requires at least two people. While a case piece requires can be moved by carrying it carefully, holding on to the bottom as you would a table or chair, it is better to move the piece on a dolly. A dolly makes the move safer for both the movers and the object, and that is all the more true for large objects. First, examine the piece. How is it put together? And how can it come apart? Take the piece apart as much as is possible. That is, remove the top piece of a cabinet from its base, remove the cornice or pediment, if there is one. If the carcass is sturdy enough, remove any drawers to lighten the load and make the move easier. Carry the drawers separately to the destination. However, if the carcass is weak and shifts from side-to-side, leave the drawers in place to provide stability and prevent further damage to the joints. Tall pieces that do not come apart into separate sections need to be set on their sides on a dolly to prevent their topping over. If the piece has handles, wrap them with padding. Padding protects the handles, the furniture surface, the movers, and the surroundings in case you bump up against anything. Never grab a heavy piece like a chest of drawers or bookcase by the cornice at the top. The attachment of the top to the base may be loosened and pull apart from the rest of the piece. Lift the piece straight up, using your legs, not your back. Don’t let it tilt, and do not grab it by its hardware or any other protrusions.
  • 25. Advice on Delivery:

    1. The problem: I do not like the grain of the wood of the furniture being delivered. Our solution is: Please, be reminded grain and color of wood is created by Mother Nature. Every tree is different. But you want another piece delivered. We ask you to make an appointment to come to our workrooms in Downingtown so they can see the new item that will be prepared for their delivery. Of course, we immediately return to stock the merchandise under question. We want to help you understand: we do not want to deliver again with the chance that customer will not like grain. Furthermore, there is a fee for this service.
    2. The problem: the furniture will not fit. At delivery, delivery staff feel, we will have a very tight fit if they attempt to carry the merchandise into the home, they might damage merchandise or the home. At delivery, delivery staff feel, we will not be able to make delivery if we attempt to carry the merchandise into the home, unless we remove the door, light fixture, stair rail or lift item through a window or lift item to the top of a garage. The solution is: Customer’s need to understand that there will be an extra delivery fee and/or a professional is needed beyond a normal delivery crew. It is not our obligation to remove doors, railings, light fixtures, deliver through windows, lift to top of garage, so we may proceed with delivery. However, with this “delivery need” many times we cannot make delivery. All we seek is to get paid a fair amount to do this extra work (if needed). * No one wants damage to merchandise or customer’s property.